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Paleontology Field Study 1991
July 7, 1991 -- August 4, 1991
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Sun. July 7, 1991 -- Day 1 |
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Left Home at 8:30 a.m. for Erskine.
I did not get much sleep last night. The trip was very relaxing,
because I drove the 65 miles. When
I arrived, I suddenly was tired, Jany and Josh were there, but no one
else was, partially because it was only 9:30.
I pushed the seat back and rested.
I was awoken when Dr. Jan Haldeman appeared, with Mrs. Thomas
Gorry. I spoke to everyone
and looked around, then returned to my comfortable front seat to rest
until everyone had arrived. Dr.
Yenke and Syble, finally arrived, but Leigh Anne Poston, and Lisa
Buckley were late. Leigh
Anne arrived at 10:45, and Lisa just at 12:00 p.m.
With the rear seat removed, we packed the van for the first time.
Everyone's gear fit fine. Pictures
were being taken everywhere as the group, ten explorers on an uncharted
trail into the Wild West, posed before leaving. Finally, all the
good-byes were said and everyone boarded the van.
More pictures were taken as we left the parking lot of the
Erskine Building.
We traveled from Due West, to Princeton, and then drove 25 to the
Green Giver exit just north of Travelers Rest, where a small store was.
We ate our lunch of ham and bologna sandwiches outside.
Everyone took advantage of the facilities, and we loaded up and
left. We traveled toward
Asheville and rode Interstates 26 and 40 to Knoxville and Nashville,
Tennessee. Our Campsite for
the first night was in Lebanon, Tn., Cedars of Lebanon State Park. We
stayed in camping area 3. Our
misfit group put up 4 tents, Dr. Yenke's small and large tents, Benson's
tent, and Leigh Anne's blue tent. We
ate a hot meal of Baked Beans and sausage.
I called home, then I called John Anthony, and we decided to go
out to Shoney's to get dessert. Over hot fudge cake we discussed his
summer job and my trip. He
had organized a lovers quarrel murder/assault for the Nashville DA's
office. I returned at 10:30 and went to sleep.
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Mon. July 8, 1991 -- Day 2
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Got up early, 7:00 a.m., and had oatmeal for breakfast. Everyone
was slow to awake, kind of grumpy.
Took down the tents, and packed everything up in the van. We left
around 9:00 headed for St. Joseph, Missouri.
Lunch today was at the Gateway rest area just east of St. Louis.
Sandwiches are becoming a staple food. Just before getting to St. Louis,
we discover the briefcase is missing. We decide that it is at Gateway,
or Cedars of Lebanon. We make a gas stop and call both places. On the
way to Lewis and Clark State Park spades was a popular game.
The van ride was not boring as there were many interesting
discussions occurring. We passed the big City of Kansas City, Mo today,
turned north toward St. Joseph. Lewis
and Clark State Park is out in the middle of nowhere.
Arrive and pit stop is necessary, a latrine is only bathroom we
see, so the girls get a new experience. We pay and move to a wide-open
area to set up our tents, just behind the fence of a private home with
dogs. We set up Dr. Yenke's
two tents and Benson's tent and Leigh Anne's blue tent. Eat good hot
supper of Beans and sandwiches. We
went swimming in the lake, and swam for almost two hours. Lightning way
off in the distance was beautiful. Leigh Anne, Lisa, and Jany, Josh, and
I finally got out and took showers. I slept well.
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Tues. July 9, 1991 -- Day 3 |
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Got up at 6:00 a.m. and ate a big breakfast of cereal and fruit. We loaded up the van to head for Royal, Nebraska.
Doug has turned the second seat around so it now faces the rear.
Stopped in Council Bluffs, Iowa at a Sinclair station, and took
pictures on the fiberglass dinosaur. We followed the Missouri river
north to Sioux City, Iowa. Stopped at the chamber of commerce to get
directions to a restaurant. Several
people bought flip-flops. Found
a Bonanza, beside a drive-in liquor store.
Ate a hot bar, and ate, and ate. Everyone filled himself or
herself. Got groceries at a store with curb service.
Had an interesting discussion while waiting. We left Sioux City
and headed west on Hwy. 20 traveling towards Royal, Nebraska. The town
is a gas station and a rural route.
Ashfall Fossil Beds State Historic Park is 2 miles west of town
and 5 miles down a dirt road. It opened on May 27, 1991, but preliminary digging at the
site occurred several years ago. Stayed from 3:00 to 5:30 p.m. We talked
with Dr. Michael Voorhees and discussed the animal, and how they dig. We
learned many techniques for digging. Traveled back to Royal and went to
Grove Lake State Park, just to the north, it is a Fisherman's Paradise.
Set up camp and put up the Apartment, an 8-man tent. Fixed leaks
in the tent, and had soup for supper. We used a hand pump to get water.
We played on the playground, and went walking around the park at
twilight. Everyone sat and talked till 10:00. Friendship seems to have
spread over the entire group.
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Wed. July 10, 1991 -- Day 4 |
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I slept well and got up early. I had frosted flakes and cocoa for
breakfast. We left for the Badlands of South Dakota. Stopped in Murdo,
S.D. and bought groceries, and postcards. I saw a real Jackalope! We
headed west to a place called 1880's Town, just off the interstate, to
have lunch. Had ham, and
bologna sandwiches, pickle, and cookies. We travel west to Badlands
National Monument. The
incredible beauty and fierceness of the badlands is evident upon
arrival. We visited the Visitor Center to get an understanding and feel
for the area. We get our
campsite and set up camp, then proceed to climb the 200 ft. spires
behind the camp. After an hour, we come down, and relax for a few
minutes, before going on a nature walk. Followed a ranger to an area off
the main road, he led us on a nature walk through a sodbed, which is
recent, only a million years old. Talked about how rock would sluff off
the Cliffs. Saw a variety of animals, including the cliff sparrows, Mule
Deer, Antelope, and some other animals. Learned the variety of plants
growing on the prairie. Two-hour hike ended, and we went back to camp to
fix spaghetti. Several
people went to gift shop to buy trinkets and film. When we returned ten
minutes later, a violent thunderstorm was approaching and supper was
quickly forgotten. The Wind gusts blew at 40-60 Mph, and tents were
quickly taken down and put up. Josh's tent had an aluminum pole broken,
and Leigh Anne's tent buckled under the force. Jany and Telani were
going to stay in the van, but Benson and Josh had put Benson's tent in a
ditch and the water flooded them out, so they stayed in the van. Lisa,
Doug, Leigh Anne, and I stayed in Dr. Yenke's Brown tent. I slept with
my poncho over me, to keep the rain off. It was blowing in the sides of
the tent covering Lisa and me with water.
The storm was finally over at 12:30, and Lisa and I headed to the
van for dry clothes. I also got a warm blanket and a pillow.
I finally got warm and comfortable and slept until 8:30 a.m.
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Thurs., July 11, 1991 -- Day 5
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Woke up at 8:30, ate big breakfast of oatmeal, coffee, and cocoa.
Everyone cleaned up and Doug climbed up on the picnic area to set things
out to dry. The humidity
was so low that everything dried in 3 hours. We met a German group
traveling in a chartered bus, and staying in tents.
We ate our Spaghetti for lunch and packed up. Left the Badlands
on a dirt road that traveled by a Prairie Dog Town, and several missile
silos. After a detour to Wall Drug Store (Billboards for 50 miles) for
ice cream and soda's, we finally returned to the interstate, and drove
west. Our next destination was Hill City, S.D., where Glen and Neil
Larsen, and Bob Ferrar operate the Black Hills Institute of Geological
Research (BHIGR). We
stopped in Rapid City, for groceries, and then headed the remaining 20
miles to Hill City, a nice little town 10 miles from Mt. Rushmore.
The BHIGR is on Main St. in an old school or civic center, still
had the basketball goal frames. Dr. Yenke went in and got directions to
Neil Larsen's house. We went back toward Rapid City, turned right,
passed near a little league baseball game, across several railroad
tracks, and up into the hills for 2 miles, then we turned off and
stopped at this cabin in the woods. We found a side road, grown up with
small pines and parked the van. We went across to the next hill, and set
up camp in an opening among the fir trees. Returned to the van for
supper on the plastic sheet that served as a picnic table. Decided to go
to Mt. Rushmore. We arrived at twilight and took pictures. I called
home. There was an evening program at 9:00, giving a history of the
mountain, after which the faces were illuminated.
A jet bound for Rapid City passed low overhead just as this
occurred. It must have been a good view. Mt. Rushmore -- 4 small faces
on a mountain, patriotic program -- good propaganda. We passed the road
to Deadwood, S.D., where "Wild Bill" Hickock is buried. Was
shot in the back while playing poker. He had a pair of aces and eights
in his hand. The hand is now called the Dead-man's hand. Went back and
went to the tent. We watched many satellites orbit, and looked at the
constellations. It was good sleeping weather, and the temperature
dropped into the low forties. Comfortable.
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Fri., July 12, 1991 -- Day 6
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Woke up late (9:30) to 45 degrees. I had cinnamon rolls and cocoa
for breakfast. We packed up the van, and headed to the BHIGR. We met Bob
Ferrar, who showed us downstairs to the gift shop to browse and examine
the specimens. I bought an ammonite, and a small piece of dinosaur bone,
and a caprolite for two dollars. they are not the best specimens, but
they are nice to have, I also got a candy dinosaur egg with a gummy
dinosaur inside. We were then shown to the main gallery where we were
shown a large palm frond and a baleen whale, a horse, and the forearm of
Sue, the Institute's 14 ft. at the hips T. Rex. Next we were shown the
cleaning of the bones, and one bone was finished, so we were shown the
process of preserving the bone. BHIGR uses watered down Elmer's glue and
Butvar (poly-vinyl crystals dissolved in acetate) to preserve their
bones. The glue is applied, and then the Butvar is squirted on.
Condiment bottles are used to hold the glue and Butvar. The bones are
then baked at low temperatures in an oven to dry the glue. We were led
into another building that was the warehouse and workroom for some of
the bigger projects. There were bones from floor to ceiling of this
two-story complex. Bob brought to our attention the fossils of an
ostrich like bird, and a marine sloth-like animal. Bob went into a dark
room and turned on some lights to illuminate this large piece of rock,
nine by six by three feet, the skull and hips, and some other parts of
Sue. The skull is
tremendous, it was partially prepared, and Sue's teeth are in very good
condition. Although Leigh Anne grabbed one and almost made Sue
snaggle-toothed. It is theorized that this is a robust type of T. Rex,
because the arms have been tested using bioengineering. They are capable
of lifting 1200 lbs. The
specimen at the Museum of the Rockies is capable of 432 lbs. The fingers
are opposable (Dave Swingle). Sue
is capable of large amounts of crushing and biting force with her 3-inch
long teeth. The next are we went to was the fish preparation. Pneumatic
chisels are used to remove the layers of rock above the fossil. It takes
a very delicate touch to not destroy the fossil. The lady had been doing
fish for nine years. The
next area was small and somewhat cramped; it contained three
micro-blasters, and several working areas. The micro-blasters each had
different compounds to be used for different types of rock, and
different types of fossils. Bob was putting together a million-piece
puzzle-like Penguin, using a modern day skeleton for comparison. That
concluded the tour and we were shown to the gift shop. We shopped for
about thirty minutes, and Darlene told us the place to eat lunch was the
Hill City Cafe just a hundred feet down the street. A log building, but
the jumbo cheeseburger plate was delicious.
The post office was just around the corner. Several people mailed
cards. We left Hill City and headed south to Custer. On the way we
passed the Crazy Horse Memorial. It is a gigantic undertaking and the
mountain is very large. Stopped in Osage, Wyoming for gas, then on past
Devil's Tower, twenty miles in the distance, to the interstate.
We rode the interstate to a place called Tongue Lake State Park
in Dover, Montana. The town was a small general store that doubled as
the post office. A one-room school was just across the street. The main
business was the Dover Mining Company, which gave us directions down a
gravel road to the state park. We got out and had to cover our bodies
with 100% DEET so mosquitoes would not eat us. We put up the big tent,
and had a delightful supper of sandwiches. We went swimming in the lake
to clean up. The water was cool. I took a quick bath then swam for about
thirty minutes. I got out and immediately applied DEET. We hung up our
dirty clothes, and hung them on a line. We went to sleep, and slept very
well.
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Sat., July 13, 1991 -- Day 7
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I got up at 5:00 to watch the sunrise over the lake. Beautiful
sunrise. The white pelicans passing overhead only made it better. I also
watched the bank swallow flying around. I went to sleep around 6:00 and
slept until 8:30. I woke up and ate a hot breakfast of oatmeal and black
coffee. We packed up the gear and said good-bye to Dover as we headed
toward Billings. We arrived in Billings about 11:00 and did our laundry
at a campground there. While we did laundry Dr. Yenke had the van's oil
changed. This was a good chance to work on our journals, and to write
postcards. We left Billings and ate in Laurel, Montana at the city park
and campground beside the Yellowstone River. We had a wonderful lunch,
and headed south on route 212 to Red Lodge. From Red Lodge to Silver
Gate, route 212 is called the Beartooth Highway. There is a group of
mountain peaks that look like a bear's tooth. We spent most of the
afternoon climbing 7,000 ft. in elevation to the Bear tooth Pass at
10,976 feet elevation. The
road did not have guardrails, and had just opened in mid-June. It is not
maintained in the winter. We stopped at the first campground west of the
pass, only to find it full. We headed across the road toward two fishing
lakes, and went up a hill to the right. There was a side path of ruts
that we then took over a hill into a depression. We stopped the van and
pulled out of the ruts onto a small plateau. We set up camp at 10,000
ft. elev. in an alpine area. The Yenke's set up their tent near the van,
and we went over the hill into the edge of an alpine meadow to set up
our tent. I cooked
spaghetti for supper, while everyone explored. After supper I got the
chore of washing the dishes in a stream that began 300 yards away in a
snowfield. It was maybe 33 degrees. I would wash a dish, and then warm
my hands, and then begin the procedure of washing and warming until all
the dishes were done. After supper I went up on top of the ridge and set
up my short-wave antenna and listened to a rugby game on the BBC. I also
found two good FM stations. One was a country station and the other was
98.0 located in Billings, Montana. We built a fire on a large rock
outcropping, and turned on the radio. They played Led Zeppelin and the
Eagles. We talked until I saw the Aurora Borealis. No one knew what I
was talking about until I said, "I see the northern lights". I
climbed up on the ridge with seven curious teenagers following. The
lights put on a show for us for two or three hours. Tonight they were
thin vertical wisps that would suddenly grow bright, as if to draw
attention to their show. The satellites were fighting overhead. They
seem headed toward one another, and then would pass harmlessly by each
other. There are lots of satellites overhead. It must be in the center
of the satellite belt. We watched two thunderstorms move down the
adjacent ridges to the north and south. They must have been 15 miles
away on either side, but the show was still very beautiful. This evening
the sunset occurred about 10:00 p.m. because of the latitude and
elevation, so it must have been two in the morning before we finally put
out the fire and went to sleep. It was a cold night. I put on my
sweatpants, jeans, T-shirt and Long-sleeve shirt before climbing into my
sleeping bag.
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Sun., July 14, 1991 -- Day 8
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After a very comfortable, but cold night, I awoke at 7:00. I went
to the bathroom behind a rock outcropping, and woke up by washing my
face with snow. Six thirty
seems like ten o'clock. The sun must have rose about 5:30.
I decided to climb back in my warm sleeping bag and sleep in. I
slept until lunchtime. We had a good lunch of sandwiches, and the rest
of the spaghetti and french bread. After lunch, Benson and the Yenkes
headed towards Silver Gate in hopes of finding some groceries, and a
campground. The rest of us went hiking. The high altitude was getting to
me. I walked a slower pace and observed the plants and animals of the
alpine meadow. I chased out several rodents -- six-inch long meadow mice
not including the tail. The
group ahead scared up a yellow-bellied marmot. It ran past not more than
six feet away. A marmot is a small mammal that burrows under rocks,and
has short appendages, and is chubby. It hibernates during the winter. I
regret that I did not have my camera. I chased it for several hundred
feet, before giving out of breath and sitting on a rock. I heard the caw
of a crow and looked up to see a Raven sitting in the tree above me. I
never thought of a crow as being a majestic bird, but this was the most
beautiful bird. It was glistening in the sun in the top of the fir tree.
I rejoined the group, who by this time had reached a large
snowfield. I snuck up and made my presence known with a quick barrage of
snowballs that landed near the group but did not hit anybody. For my
consideration I was rewarded with a barrage of snowballs that hit their
target. I retaliated and
the group broke up into a free-for-all. this went on for just a short
while. We discovered the warm rocks among the snow, and Jany and Leigh
Anne proceeded to get some sun. I made a small snowman as we talked
about our likes and dislikes. Leigh Anne decided to move to a different
rock. Suddenly she fell through the snow. I feared that she had broken
an ankle or worse and quickly rushed to her aid.
I went way around the break in the ice and got down on the rock
to help her up. Her foot was caught, but she managed to work it free and
get up. She sat on the rock
for several minutes, but refused our offers to carry her back to camp.
As the Yenke's arrived, she got up with a grimace and walked back
towards camp. The alpine meadow was very marshy. Pain was in her eyes as
she walked back to camp. We heard that Dr. Yenke had found a campsite,
and a well stocked store just down the road. We packed up and left at
4:30. Our campground was
Beartooth Lakes. It was in Montana, but the Wyoming border was nearby.
We went shopping at the store. The game-warden was on the front porch
talking, with his pistol in his leather holster. A pretty white malamute
dog was sitting beside him. We went inside the store to find a Small
treasure trove. I bought a T-shirt, ring, and some postcards. I also bought a Mylar emergency blanket. It was going to be
cold, and I wanted to be prepared.
We returned to the campsite. I went exploring, and slipped into
the fast flowing stream. I needed a bath, and my feet were already wet,
so I got my soap, shampoo, a towel, and shirt and headed for the stream.
I slipped, again, even though I had waded in with my shoes on, and
dropped my Zip-lock bag with my soap. I chased it for fifteen feet down
the stream. I caught it, but in my rush, my black New York T-shirt
slipped off my shoulder. I did not see it go down the stream. I had a
good bath, except for my bruised legs and the loss of my shirt I was
fine. The water was cold. I
did not realize that it was so cold, but it was only about 55 degrees.
We had hot dogs for supper.and had Marshmallows for desert. I later
found out that we also had graham crackers and Hershey bars. I went to
sleep early, but was awoken by everyone when they finally came in the
tent. Lisa complained about the cold, so I gave her my wool blanket, and
used the mylar sheet. I put it in my sleeping bag and was perfectly
comfortable, but I was constantly being poked and prodded. The mylar
rattled every time I moved, and people kept poking me so I kept moving.
Finally I took the Mylar and put in the corner. I got prodded the worst
for this and I was trying to appease the "restless natives".
Later I got cold and grabbed the Mylar sheet. Somebody grumbled
and I told them to "Stuff it,
I am cold and Lisa has my blanket". It got quiet, and I got
warmer, and finally got some sleep.
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Mon., July 15, 1991 -- Day 9
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We got up around 7:00 and packed up. The warm breakfast of
oatmeal was wonderful, and HOT. Last night was cold. down into the low
40's. We were on our way west down to Yellowstone by 9:00. We passed
through Silver City, Wyoming, where we stopped to get gas and soda. The
on into Yellowstone National Park. We travelled through the Lamar
valley, past Roosevelt-Tower, and on to Mammoth Hot Springs. We went to
the Visitor Center / Museum. We saw all the history of the Yellowstone
area. We saw photographs from the Hayden expedition of 1871. I was the
only person who knew the significance of this geological survey. We also
saw the incredible watercolors Moran painted of the park on the same
expedition. I saw a movie, Winter in Yellowstone which showed how
difficult life is in the park during the winter. The only road into the
park maintained during the winter is the one to Silver Gate, out of
necessity. I left the Visitor Center with a much better understanding of
Yellowstone's history and purpose. We travelled north, out of the park
to Gardiner, Montana, to eat lunch. Our destination was a
hole-in-the-wall greasy-spoon cafe. Helen's Coral served the best food a
ranger had told us, so we each had a cheeseburger basket. It was
delicious. We stayed in Gardiner for a while to shop and get groceries.
Our afternoon destination was the Norris Geyser Basin, to the south of
Mammoth Hot Springs. The basin is the most active area in the park. We
decided to give ourselves an hour and a half to see the area, a two or
three mile walk to see all the many cauldrons, hot springs, and geysers.
We watched the Echinius Geyser erupt thirty or forty feet into the air.
We passed a place and looked out and saw a hat in the Geyser
Basin. It resembled Lisa's, and in fact, was Lisa's. She later got a
ranger to retrieve it, and was late returning to the van. We were all
thirsty, and I had two apple juices from the coke machine. It was
bottled by the Coca-Cola Company. We went to Old Faithful. It had just
erupted, It erupts on intervals of 60-90 minutes. I worked on my
Journal, and called home. It was my father's birthday. Old Faithful was
not so spectacular, but I am glad we got to see it erupt. It took us
about another hour to get to our campground at Grant Village. We set up
camp in the group camp section. A rabbit was eating in the middle of our
campsite. We put up our tents and had a good meal, sandwiches and a
garden salad. I worked on my journal and talked by the fire. I went to
sleep dressed in a T-shirt and wool sweater, and sweatpants. The night
was cool, 45 degrees.
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Tues., July 16, 1991 -- Day 10 |
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We woke up early, and packed our lunch. Today we work for a paleo-ecologist,
in Soda Butte Valley. We travelled north through West Thumb, and Land
Bridge to Canyon. We made a side-trip to the Grand Canyon of the
Yellowstone. The Lower Falls fall 836 ft. to the bottom of the canyon. I
see why Yellowstone got its name, all the yellow stone. The canyon is
Incrediblely beautiful. I see why Moran's watercolors are so striking,
and the photographs were so difficult to make. We stopped to make
reservations and shop at the Roosevelt Lodge before travelling to Soda
Butte Valley. We stopped at a picnic area beside the Lamar River. The
location of Liz Barnofski's dig was the first dry gulch after the road
crossed Soda Butte Creek. The Soda Butte was a hot spring formation
fifteen feet high. We hiked up the gulch for about ten minutes to reach
the dig site. Liz Bafnofski, and her assistant Chris were hard at work.
Liz was working on her doctorate at UC-Berkley, and gave us a short
lecture to bring us up to date on her work. We learned that Taphonomy
means - What has happened to an animals bones since its death. Bone
Appearance is important. Owls swallow their prey whole, and their
stomach acids leave microscopic pits in the bone. Hawks dismember their
prey, so the bones are usually broken or crushed. She is excavating a
pack-rats nest. There are seventeen levels, that are in chronological
order. Some parts of the have been carbon dated to 2500 years ago. The
glaciation of Yellowstone only ended 10,000 years ago, so the pack rats
nest gives a history of the small population in the recent history of
the park. Today was the last day of excavation at the site. We strained
units 16 and 17. Unit 16 consisted of a nest area, and unit 17 was an
alluvial area deposited during a flash flood. We hiked up the mountain,
and saw bright orange Indian Paintbrushes, then returned to help carry
out the screenings. We left
for Roosevelt Lodge for supper. Several people stayed in the van and
worked on journals. Today
was a good day, although there was some grumbling about the screening.
We had a wonderful supper. I had Trout Almondine.
On our return trip to Grant village, we saw more, deer, elk,
buffalo, and our first Grizzly Bears. A mother and her two cubs were
crossing a meadow almost a mile away. Jany took fifteen minutes to
realize the three small brown dots were actually grizzly bears. We
returned and had a restful sleep.
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Wed., July 17, 1991 -- Day 11 |
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We woke up late (9:00) and packed quickly. We left Yellowstone
through West Yellowstone. We stopped for gas, ice,and milk-shakes. Mmm,
Mmm Good!! Our next stop was Headwaters of the Missouri State Park.
Major renovations were underway and we stayed free. We had lunch, and
left for Bozeman. The Museum of the Rockies is behind the large dome of
the Field House, It is a nice new facility. We met Dave Swingle, the
education director, who led us on a tour of the museum. We were
instructed to enter a room quickly, because of the extreme security. We
first saw the comparative anatomy area. Live lizards,snakes,crocodiles
and turtles that are used in life-like models. Next was the preparation
area. They have a separate laboratory where they micro-disect dinosaur
bones to discover what kind of haversian systems the animals had, and to
offer insight as to whether they were endothermic or exothermic. Saw the
museums T.Rex that was found articulated, and 90% complete. The animal
stood about nine or ten feet at the hips. The Miasaura Peeblesaurium is
shown in great detail since Jack Horner is one the Paleontological
Curator at the museum. We saw a great planetarium show produced at Montana State
University, The Dinosaur Chronicles. Museum has many good collections,
including Western Life, Art, Toys, Games, and Photography.
It is a very fine museum. We
washed clothes and got groceries in Bozeman, before returning to
Headwaters S.P. for Supper. Supper was hot soup, and Saltines. Several
people worked on journals before going to sleep. The low temperature was
50-55 degrees.
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Thurs., July 18, 1991 -- Day 12 |
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We got up at 8:30, had breakfast, and left for Great Falls. We
got groceries, gas and other necessities.
We stopped along the interstate and had fried chicken for lunch.
We also had potato salad, and bean salad. We crossed the border with
very little difficulty. We stopped in Lethbridge at the Visitor Center
to get information and directions. We stopped at a Mall in Lethbridge to
change our currency. Dinosaur Provincial Park is located near Patricia,
Alberta. We arrived about six in the evening and had supper of leftover
chicken and sandwiches. We visited the Tyrell Field Museum, A small but
very dramatic museum. It shows four Dromeosaurs attacking a duckbill
dinosaur, much like lions attack Zebras in the wilds of Africa. Also had
a good theater with a video projector as well as a film projector. We
watched part of a film about Dinosaur Provincial Park during the age of
dinosaurs. It was in a river delta, and the allusion was made to the
Everglades of Florida. We returned to camp and headed for the swings.
Leigh Anne, Jany, Doug, and I talked and discussed the trip and what we
would be doing after the trip. The night was very comfortable, and I
slept well.
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Fri., July 19, 1991 -- Day 13
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We woke up early 8:00 a.m. and quickly ate and got ready for a
tour of the park at 9:00. We rode out into a restricted area and parked
the van. George Zarkads introduced himself and led us down a path.
Dinosaur Provincial Park is a part of the Judith River Formation, and is
68-75 million years old. It was a deltaic area with riparian forests.
The term fossilization is not used in Canada. Permineralization is the
correct term for the process. The replacement of bone by minerals,
Permineralization, occurs when a carcass is covered with mud, and
protected from aerobic bacteria. Then over a period of several million
years the calcium of the bone is leached out and replaced by silicates,
which preserve the original structures found in the bone. George uses
several other terms. Bioterbation, the squishing of mud up and down by
dinosaurs or other animals that results in a displacement of layers from
their correct position, such as dinosaurs squishing around in a muddy
river bank. George pointed out an area where this might have occurred 68
to 75 MYA. He described the "badlands valley" as a coulee. A
rill is a small rain erosion area on the side of a hill. An auro is a
small highly eroding dry creek. We were shown to an area where several
juvenile Carnithasaurs that died at the same time and were buried in the
mud. Another dinosaur Ornithimandes, were small carnivorous dinosaurs
that may be a possible forerunner to the birds. The Ostrich might give
us clues to the behavior of these dinosaurs. The Canadian Geological
Survey and Toronto University had their names on the benchmark with the
dates 1920 and 1936. The next place of interest was the Centrosaurus
bone bed. It is about four inches thick and covers several acres.
Digging has been occurring for twelve years at the site. The Centrosaurs
looks similar to triceratops, except has one horn in the center of its
forehead. The latest figure on the number of animals found is sixty-six,
arrived at by the number of occipital condile's found. There may be as
many as 300 or more individuals. Paleontologists theorize that a heard
of Centrosaurs were crossing the river and were caught by a flash flood
75 MYA, they were covered by the silt and preserved during the course of
a day. Herds of 10,000,00 or more possibly migrated from Texas to
Alberta. The herd behavior was for protection from the roaming packs of
Tyranids. The next stop was an area of the same bone bed, but was on the
side of a cliff. We were
able to talk to the volunteers digging. One was from Winchester,
Virginia, twenty miles from Front Royal, Doug's Bowen's hometown. They
must volunteer for three weeks, but food and lodging are provided. Each
volunteer must arrange his or her transportation to Calgary, though. We
talked with the diggers for about fifteen minutes, and then we walked
back to the van. Lunch was sandwiches and some chicken. We took down the
tents and packed the van. We arrived at Drumheller at 2:30, and had an
appointment at the museum at 3:00. We quickly set up camp, and arrived
at the Tyrell Museum just in time for our tour. Kym Jensen, the
educational director of the museum, met us and guided us back into the
museum's work area. Our first stop was the warehouse where 20 or more
man years of unprepared fossils wait. The warehouse was extremely neat.
We walked down a corridor and arrived at the small prep lab. It was as
clean as a hospital and had ten work areas with laminated tops. Everyone
was out in the field. The field season lasts from late may through
September, depending upon funding. The museum uses wax in the casting of
fossils for its shock absorbing properties. We walked into the large
prep lab, which is visible from the museum itself. We saw a cretaceous
alligator found in Midlands Provincial Park, near the museum. The
alligator is very hard to prepare because of the coal deposit that it
was in. we also learned of the joint study on the Continental Evolution
of the Dinosaurs is being conducted between Bill Curry, of the Tyrell
Museum, and Don Cha Ming of China. The Collections room, which stores
prepared fossils, was our next stop. Small fossils are in metal storage
cases, while larger fossils are on metal shelves. Kym pointed out a
Pachy-Rhinoceros from Pipestone Creek in Alberta. Also she showed us the
Tyrell's Tyrannosaurus Rex, which was found at Crow's Nest Pass on the
Alberta - British Columbia border. The per mineralized bones lay in a
very hard limestone that has preserved them well, but is a major under
taking to remove. Only a portion of the skull has been prepared, but
this took four years to complete. The collection includes Ammonites,
Fish from Kansas, and fossilized wood. We stopped for questions and
began a discussion of the birds. Jacque Guthier and the California
Academy of Science were discussed, as well as "Proto-Aves", an
as yet un-named fossil that was discovered in Texas in the 1980's. The
museum did not close until 9:00, so we stayed until 6:00 p.m. It is a
state-of-the-art museum that opened in 1986, and the exhibits are very
good, showing the evolution, biomechanics, fossils, realistic
sculptures, and a terrarium of plants that existed when the dinosaurs
lived. We decided to return the next morning and left for the
campground. We had soup for supper, and I burned my tongue. Then
everyone went swimming. We swam for about an hour and the pool closed,
so we got out and took showers. The girls met and talked with Tenile, a
fifteen year-old Canadian, who lived in Alberta. She looked older, 18 or
19. We learned the term "Loonie" referred to the one-dollar
coin. I slept well after I was allowed to go to sleep, because of the
goings on in the tent.
|
Sat., July 20, 1991 -- Day 14 |
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Woke up early to ground covered by heavy dew, and headed to the
bathhouse to shave for the first time during the trip. When I returned
everyone was up and breakfast was being served. I had strawberries and
cream flavored oatmeal. We returned to the museum to see the remaining
exhibits. It was very informative. I called home, and stopped by the
gift shop. We left the museum and stopped in Drumheller for groceries,
then headed west toward Calgary, which we by-passed to the north, and
finally to Banff. We made a wrong turn and had a quick tour of downtown,
before returning to the correct road and entering Banff National Park.
We paid a usage fee, and headed west to a campground to pick up the keys
to our campground. Castle Meadows was about fifteen miles west of Banff
and was entered through a locked gate, for security. We arrived at our
group campsite, and met the Campbell and his wife, who had a group of
six children. They were staying the weekend, and invited us to eat their
leftover tacos. We graciously thanked them and devoured the tacos. We
put up three tents. I put up Dr. Yenke's brown tent, so I might get some
rest. Dr. Yenke and Syble put up their tent, and then everyone else put
up the apartment. Doug helped Campbell build a fire, and everyone sat
around, talked, and worked on journals. We learned Campbell was a
photographer who had recently photographed the Tyrell Museum. Learned that the children had been abused, and some were
abusers themselves. Camping is a reward for their being good, and it was
carefully planned and set up where the children were carefully monitored
and controlled. The procedures were almost straightforward, and worked
pretty well. Marshmallows were given out for being good, and were
roasted over the fire. Campbell is from South Africa, and his wife is
Australian. They lived to the west of Banff Park. It started raining, so
we stayed under the shelter and discussed the Canadian political scene,
and their medical practices. Also talked about other subjects to gain an
insight to the country and the province. The rain continued all night,
so I put down my Mylar blanket under my sleeping bag. , then I put my
pillow and mattress down, then my sleeping bag and blanket. I was warm
and comfortable, but some people's stuff got wet. I slept very good.
|
Sun., July 21, 1991 -- Day 15 |
|
We got up early, and warmed the water; Campbell was already up
and fixing bacon and eggs. I had two bowls of oatmeal, and drank several
cups of coffee. Today we were going to Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump,
near Ft. McLeod, to see the museum and the Pow Wow that was occurring.
The Pigean Indians of the Blackfeet Nation were the hosts. Pigean is
pronounced like Pagan. The dancers had exquisite outfits. Several groups
did the calls and drumming for the different dances from several
different areas. Some of the dances performed were the Hoop dance, the
Sneak dance, Bell dance, and an Inter-tribal, a group dance. Each tribe
has a different costume and each part of the costume is symbolic. One
man had the British flag across the back of his costume. An Indian man
stated this was because the Pigean had signed a treaty with the British.
The museum was very interesting. It was built into the edge of the
mountain. It told the story of the Buffalo Jump. The Indians would dress
up as Buffalo, and Wolves. They would build a grass fence between the
stone posts that were shaped like a funnel. The grass would look like a
wall to the buffalo. The Indians dressed as Buffalo would lead the
buffalo to the jump, while those dressed as wolves would herd them
toward the jump. The first buffalo would run off the cliff and then the
herd would follow. The Indians would get food, and skins. The last jump
was only eighty some years ago. We stopped to get groceries in a small
town. Mrs. Lee's Bakery was located in the town. It had good cinnamon
rolls and apple pastries. The cookies were good also. Several people
called home. We returned to the campground via the south side of
Calgary. We cooked a quick supper and went to sleep. It was a cool
night.
|
Monday, July 22, 1991 -- Day 16
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Last night was very cold -2 degrees Celsius or 28 degrees
Fahrenheit, according to the rangers. I woke up at 8:00 a.m. and heated
the water. I ate a quick breakfast and went back to sleep. I was woken
up at 10:30; we were going into Banff for a day of shipping. We went
swimming at the Cave and Basin, a hot spring filled swimming pool, which
was the First part of Canada's national park system in 1885. Hot springs
were thought to be therapeutic, and also were slightly radioactive. The
Basin was closed in 1971 because it could not be properly chlorinated.
We swam for an hour and took a quick shower. We strolled the streets of
Banff for several hours looking and making small purchased in several
different stores. I bought several postcards. I found Doug, then we
found Leigh Anne, then Jany, and Telani. It was time for dinner, so we
looked for a restaurant. We chose to eat at The Yard, on the third
floor, with an excellent view of the Canadian Rockies. The five of us
had a great meal and good conversation. I had sea chowder for an
appetizer, and fried halibut with beer fries for supper. We finished
supper and returned to the van. Washing was very expensive, so we
decided to spend another hour walking around town. Dr. Yenke and Syble
invited me to join them at a coffee shop. I had a very delicious mug of
hot chocolate. Nine o'clock came quickly, and we returned to the
campground. Lisa decided to put up Leigh Anne's tent. I was very tired
and went to sleep.
|
Tues, July 23, 1991 -- Day 17
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|
We woke up, ate breakfast, and quickly packed lunch. Today our
destination was the small town of Field, British Columbia, in Yoho
National Park. The Burgess Shale is located in the surrounding
mountains. Walcott's Quarry is a day’s hike up the mountain from
Field.
We arrived in Field and met our guide, Rosemary Tower in the
middle of town. She then led us through town and by her house. Then we
headed in to the mountains to behind her house, (southerly ridge). There
we found a trail and began a hard hike up the ridge. Over 2.5 miles we
climbed 2500 feet elevation, which took about three and one-quarter
hours. We sat down on the rocks and had lunch. We had a short question
and answer session, in which rosemary showed us some trilobites, which
she had hidden away. She had a prime specimen of Ollinoides, which was
spiny, and Ogygopsis, which was smooth and rounded. She also had a type
of Sponges, Crustaceans, and several other animals that were preserved
in the shale. She even had a claw-like appendage from an Anamolacaris,
another strange creature of the Shale. All these animals were 530
Million Years old. I picked up three small partial Trilobites and put
them in my pack. It was a long hike back down, and very tiring. We saw
mushrooms, and a small native orchid that was blooming. We returned to
town, and stopped at the visitor center. We watched a film about the
Burgess Shale that Rosemary's husband Eric, had produced. Rosemary's son
was named Burgess.
We left Field, and headed north to the Columbia Glacier, about 40
miles to the north. The mountains along the road were very scenic, with
waterfalls, glacial rivers, and small ice fields. When we arrived at the
glacier, the wind had picked up to about 25 Mph, and the temperature
with wind chill was about 30 degrees. We followed the parallel scratch
marks created by the glacier, and up several moraines, to the edge of
the ice. Several of us ventured onto the ice. There were several
crevasses, some 20 feet deep. We had a snowball fight, and headed back
down to the van. The terminal moraine for this glacier was built in
1880, and ever since then it has been receding. It also has several
lateral moraines, some with large glacial creeks, in the low areas. We
stopped at the Petrol station. The station attendant was very nice, and
pretty girl. The Japanese probably owned the Resort Inn next door. We
used the bathrooms.
On the way back to
camp we stopped in Lake Louise, a small resort town, we got gas and
pastries. I got some good chocolate ice cream. We returned to camp and
cooked supper. I ate quickly and went to bed. I slept well. It was a
warm night; 48 degrees Fahrenheit was the low.
|
Wed., July 24, 1991 -- Day 18
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I woke up at 8:30 and started the stove. I had several cups of
coffee and some oatmeal. I took the quiet time to re-pack, and write in
my journal. I re-organized my clothes, and aired out my sleeping bag. I
got warm, curled up, and went to sleep. I was awoken at 12:00; I quickly
ate two sandwiches, and got my dirty clothes. We were off to Lake Louise
for the afternoon. The village of Lake Louise, is really just a shopping
center, with everything located there, a bank, grocery store,
photography shop, and a laundry, as well as other stores. Everyone
washed clothes. I took a shower in very warm water. I forgot my towel,
but used my cotton sweatpants dried me sufficiently. I shopped for some
postcards and quickly browsed through all the shops. I had time to work
on my journal and call home. Called my grandparents. It was a hundred
and one degrees in South Carolina.
Six o'clock came and
the Yenke's who had gone shopping in Canmore picked us up. We returned
to camp and started fixing supper.
We were going to have chicken for supper. Syble par-boiled it,
and then we put it on a charcoal grill. Benson, Jany and I set up the
grills. We divided the charcoal, and put lighter fluid on the coals.
Jany waited for a minute, and lit the fire. Flames leaped five feet up
and Jany leapt up and back several feet. Whoosh!! Now that was a fire.
Jany was much more careful when lighting the second fire. It flamed up
also, but she had dropped the match and moved away. What had started off
in a big way quickly became an insufficient fire. We stoked it up, and
it slowly got ready. We put the chicken and sausage on the flames, Dr.
Yenke fixed up some sauce using the EXTRA hot bar-b-que sauce and
spaghetti sauce. Everything turned out wonderfully. Syble had even
cooked some cabbage and potatoes. It was a delicious supper. I worked on
my journal, and caught up around the large fire Doug had built. I slept
well, it was a very comfortable night.
|
Thurs., July 25, 1991 -- Day 19
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I woke up at 7:00, and heated the water. I drank several cups of
coffee, without cream or sugar. It was not too bad. I helped cut the
Swiss cheese and mushrooms for an omelet. While everything was cooking,
I took down my tent, and packed up for the trip to Glacier National
Park, in Montana. The omelet was very good. We finally finished packing
and left at 11:00 a.m. We headed toward the border to Ft. McLeod, and
the border on Route 2. We again had no trouble crossing the border back
into the U.S. We stopped in St. Mary's Montana to shop and get
groceries. We quickly stopped at the Visitor Center for Glacier N.P. and
then went to our campground at Many Glacier, a small village with a
campground and cabins, and a hotel and trading post. Many Glaciers is
located in an east-west valley near the continental divide, and had no
misquotes, but there were biting flies that made up for them. We set up
camp and ate soup and sandwiches for supper. We drank Coca-Cola. Then we
put everything back in the van. Bear Warnings were posted and a few
weeks before a bear had been sighted in the village. I did not sleep to
well, the caffeine in the Coke kept me awake. I walked out of the tent,
and was awestruck by the full moon over the mountains. It looked like an
alien landscape.
|
Friday July 26, 1991 -- Day 20
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I woke up at 10:00 and prepared the hot water. I ate breakfast
and drank my coffee black. Today is our day off. We have absolutely
nothing that we have to do. I worked on my journal until 12:00, and then
fixed me to sandwiches for lunch. Josh left camp and headed of hiking by
himself. Jany, Benson, Doug, Lisa, and Leigh Anne headed off toward
Ptaramain Tunnel, 6.1 miles away. Dr. Yenke, and Syble hiked about 2
miles to a lake, while Telani and I stayed around camp and worked on our
journals and listened to the radio. The clouds have been driven quickly
across the mountains. The wind has never dropped below 5 Mph the whole
day. I also found time for a three-hour slumber. I woke up and read some
more of "Digging Dinosaurs". Everyone started returning, so I
got the stove out and started boiling water, for our spaghetti. Everyone
enjoyed the supper and several people enjoyed taking a shower. I read
more of Jack Horner's book "Digging Dinosaurs", because we
would be at Egg Mountain, near Choteau tomorrow. Everyone went to sleep
at 9:00, but some unthoughtfull people kept me up until 3:15. I not
wanting to waste any time, took the opportunity to write down some ideas
for a program that I had been thinking about. It was relatively quiet
and I could think pretty good and accomplished much. My writing did not
need to be neat, and I have written in the dark many times before, when
I would come up with a good idea, so it was very readable print. I
finally checked my watch. It was 3:15 a.m., and wake-up was at 6:00 a.m.
I had to leave the tent and again was stunned by the beauty of the full
moon.
|
Sat., July 27, 1991 -- Day 21 |
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We got up at 6:00, fixed breakfast, and packed the van. We headed
to Browning, Montana. Jany needed to pick up some money at the Western
Union, in a grocery store. I bought some film, and went into the little
cafe next door. It was a very interesting place. One sign read,
"Smoking permitted in all areas". Another read, "We
reserve the right to serve anyone." Dr. Yenke and Syble enjoyed
their cup of coffee, among cowboys and Indians. We stopped at a small
tourist trap, open 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. six days a week. Syble and Jany
enjoyed shopping. As we drew near Choteau, we passed a church that had
once been a rock and fossil shop. We later learned that this had once
been run by the Bravolds, and was where Jack Horner had found his coffee
can full of dinosaur bones. We stopped in Choteau for groceries. The van
stood out in a parking lot full of four wheel drive trucks and old cars.
People gave us their warmest regards when the found we were going to Egg
Mountain. I bought some super-glue to repair my sunglasses. The road to
the Museum of the Rockies Field Paleontology School is locates on the
southern outskirts of town toward Augusta. Egg Mountain is located
twelve miles down this road, which is maintained by the defense
department. There are two missile silos along it. A small sign directs
us to the camp, which is visible, because of the many white tee-pees. We
arrived at 11:30 and were met by Biata Golda, the camp manager. She
showed us where to put our food, and told us we could use the tee-pees.
We unpacked the food, and sorted it into the correct boxes, then stored
it in the kitchen. Everyone chose their tee-pees, and set up camp. We
had sandwiches for lunch, and were introduced to Suzannah Kitchens, a
staff member from Greenwood, who is a rising junior at Smith College in
Massachusetts. We talked and rested until 2:00 when there was a tour of
Egg Mountain. There was a large crowd for the presentation. The Egg
Mountain contained the remains of 500 dinosaur eggs, and is 80 million
years old. It was discovered when some oil geologist asked Jack Horner
to check a charge line. He found some fragments under the dynamite, and
marked the spot. The charge line was moved and Egg Mountain was
discovered. Several species of dinosaurs are found in the Willow Creek
Anticline. Veranid lizards are found; they liked eggs. Oreodromeous is a
predatory beast that would attack in groups in hope of getting a
helpless baby. Truadon, a non-parental, carnivorous type of dinosaur,
that laid most of the eggs found. Albertosaurus is a large tyranid,
capable of killing an adult dinosaur. Maiasaurs, which are a duck-billed
type and exhibited parental care, roamed the range in large herds.
Pterosaurs, a flying reptile, have also been found at the site, which is
now owned by the Nature Conservancy. It is its first extinct species
preserve.
The theories of how the eggs were covered and preserved, as well
as how a herd of ten thousand Maiasaurs perished and were preserved is
told in Jack Horner’s "Digging Dinosaurs". The explanation
is a very interesting one and deserves his expert treatment of the
subject.
We
returned to camp and met Tim Young and Joel ????. We also met Carol
Cunningham, editor of Montana Magazine, and a free-lance writer. We
waited until four o'clock, then we went surface collecting on the
anticline. I found a femur from a small mammal, but recent. We saw lots
of eggshell. Doug found several items that were kept because of their
possible value. Jack Horner, had said that you can be no more than
eighteen inches above the ground if you hope to find anything. He was
very correct. The fossils in the Egg Mountain area are very difficult to
find, but sometimes they are obvious. We visited the 1978 and 1979 nest
sites, Egg Gulch, Nest in the wall, and the Brandvold site, before
walking to the top of the ridge to get a perspective of the anticline.
We returned to camp and fixed hamburgers and French fries for supper.
Carol joined us, and got our names. She is working on an article for
"Delta Magazine". Tim Young is working on, or has his
doctorate, from the University of Georgia, and teaches biology at Mercer
University. He was at Georgia with Dr. Doug Facey. We watched the
moonrise, and went down the hill to watch a slide show. This slide show
lasted about an hour. We went to sleep at ten thirty. I slept very well,
even though I had to sleep on big round rocks. |
Sun.,
July 28, 1991 -- Day 22 |
|
I got up around 8:00, and had breakfast. Then I quickly packed
up. I returned to the kitchen area and talked with Tim and Joel. Tim is
a very interesting person, and a very good professor. He seems to be
very interesting. Joel is a quiet guy who is spending the whole summer
at Egg Mountain. Everyone finally woke up and we packed up the van. I
took advantage of my free time to examine the Camposaur bone bed, on the
edge of the kitchen complex. On our way out of the camp, we stopped at
what once was called the Children's Dig. It is now called "That's
Nice", and pronounced (That'z N-ice) using a drawn out southern
accent. The name changed when the people digging there started bringing
up some good bones and someone exclaimed "That's Nice." Gary
Collins, who wore Penn State Hockey T-shirts and was a science teacher
in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, was digging at the site. Also Carol Ford,
an older lady, who is Director of Preparations, at a museum in Detroit,
Michigan. I was up but was packing when they headed up the hill, but
Doug had been around the Kitchen and followed them up the hill. He had
moved about six inches of dirt from above the bones, and was now finding
several large bones. A mustard bottle was nearby that contained Butvar.
Carol graciously gave us the recipe -- Poly-Vinyl Crystals that are
dissolved in Acetone. We were offered fragments of dinosaur bone, so I
picked up two pieces of Maiasaura fossils. We left for Afton, Wyoming
around 10:00. Augusta, Montana was our first stop. we got gas and some
groceries from a general store. Jany almost got left, because she
wandered off shopping. We stopped just south of Butte, Montana for
lunch. Butte is a large strip mine, and lots of people. We entered a new
state today, Idaho. We stopped in Idaho Falls for supper and groceries.
I bought a wall Street Journal, and called home. We got four large
pizzas, and a 12-pack of coke. The road from Idaho Falls to Afton,
Wyoming was mountainous, so driving was slow. We decided to stop at
Palisade Lake Campground in Palisade National Recreation Area. It was
twenty miles from Afton. We set up the tents, and built a big fire.
Several people roasted marshmallows. I worked on my journal and listened
to the voice of the Navajo nation on the AM band. I took a long time to
go to sleep, so I worked on my computer program for a while. I slept
pretty well on the rough ground.
|
Monday, July 29,1991 -- Day 23
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I woke up with a backache, and then heated the water. I had
oatmeal and coffee for breakfast, and then I found the pastries. I had
one that was just delicious. We packed and headed to Rick Hebdon's home,
a beautiful two-story log cabin, with a basement that houses their
fossil shop and studio. The Hebdon's have a very nice and neat
operation. They also have a very fine private collection. We saw
soft-shelled turtles, and a crocodile, a duck-billed Flamingo, and most
of their private collection. We traveled to Fossil Butte National
Monument. It is part of the Green River formation, a 40 to 60
million-year-old area from the Eocene. We saw a video. Dr. Lance Grande,
and Dr. Paul Burkheim, a sedimentologist from Loma Linda University were
shown. Dr. Yenke had contacted Dr. Burkheim, and he said he would sow us
the fossil beds if he was in the area. He had returned to California,
though when we arrived. Trinichids are soft-shelled freshwater turtles.
Another interesting fact is that Fossil Paddlefish are found at fossil
butte, and modern ones are found in the Mississippi River and the Nile
river. We met Kevin who was working at the desk. He was from Greenville,
S.C. and lived in Kentucky, but he was working at Fossil Butte for the
summer. We spent about thirty minutes in the Visitor Center, and then
went to a picnic area at Fossil Butte for lunch. Kemmerer, Wyoming is a
short distance away, and Telani needed some money from the Western
Union, so we stopped for to get boxes for the fossils, and to mail
letters, and to get gas. There was not a Western Union, though. Leigh
small Visitor Center/Museum about the town. The Warfield Quarry is
located seven miles out of Kemmerer on the highway to Evanston. Amoco
operates a mine and a refinery, in the area. The dirt road is on the
right and zigzags eight miles into the hills. Then there is a small
encampment that is the Warfield Quarry. It has the only flowing spring
for 50 miles. John Conway, a gemologist and fossil collector, who was
the supervisor of the quarry. He gave us some tools and led us up the
hill. We started removing the overburden, and started finding fish, but
all of these we were destroying, because we were not proficient in the
use of a chisel. As time progressed, Kevin stopped by and gave us lots
of useful hints. We should be splitting the shale that is under our
feet. Doug and Dr. Yenke were able to find several good specimens. Kevin
invited us down to his car and showed us some of the fossils that he had
collected. He gave Leigh Ann and me a rock, which contained fish. I
continued quarrying and found a few broken fish, but kept them anyway. A
partial would mean just as much as a whole fish. We fixed seafood and
noodles for supper and packed some of our fossils. Then we cooked up
beans and sausage for the next days supper. Doug and I visited an older
man, who was prospecting with his son. We learned several small tips
from him. He was drunk, but made pretty good sense. He was a retired
navy veteran. I went to sleep at 11:30.
|
Tues. July 30,1991 -- Day 24 |
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I woke up at 6:30 and had a quick breakfast. I got my tools and
was in the quarry by 7:00 a.m. I have gotten better at splitting the
rocks and picked up a new chisel. I found several partials, and was
happy. Syble found a nice large specimen. It was six inches wide and
about ten inches long. Patience is the KEY, along with a light touch. We
quit at 11:30 a.m. and returned to camp to pack up and eat lunch. We
made the decision to carry our fossils home in the van. Syble had 3
boxes, and the rest of us only had either a box or less. We took showers
to try to get all the dust off. It was a fine chalky powder. The spring
fed a stream, which had a Ram, which used the water pressure to pump the
water up the hill 50 feet or so to a 500 gallon storage tank. After a
fall of 100 feet, pipe led to the Office, and to the restrooms. A
propane water-heater warmed the water, and also provided energy for a
gas stove and heater in the office. The pressure was less than a normal
shower, but the setup worked fine. A tobacco tin was the kitty for
showers, which cost a dollar. It was good to be clean. We returned to
Kemmerer and headed to Rock Springs, Wyoming. We stopped and got gas.
Jany and Telani received money through Western Union. We went shopping
there at a very large shopping center. I went to a bank, but they would
not convert my Canadian currency to American dollars. We turned south
and passed through the Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area, before
reaching the outskirts of Vernal, Utah. We stopped at the Dino Trail
campground. Dr. Yenke got a good deal. It would have cost us $40, but he
got a spot for $20. We had beans, and corn-on-the-cob, as well as a
salad. It was a very good supper. Several people did laundry, but I
cleaned up the campsite, and locked up the van. I worked on my journal
and went to sleep. I slept well, until everyone returned to the van and
woke me up. I went to sleep again and slept pretty well. The low was
about 55 degrees.
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Wed., July 31,1991 -- Day 25
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I woke up at 7:00. I had oatmeal, real milk, and blueberry
muffins for breakfast. We finished packing and left by 8:30 a.m. We
stopped to get gas in Vernal, and learned of a museum across the street.
The Dinosaur Field House Museum was a very nice museum for its size. It
had lots of good exhibits. Folk Heritage, Minerals, Dinosaurs, and
Vertebrate Zoology were some of the collections they housed. All of
these collections were excellent. Some of the exhibits were worded wrong
though. The evolution of Equs was shown as being a serial progression
instead of the parallel evolution that now appears to have occurred.
They had a machine that completely defaced pennies, and minted out a
dinosaur coin. It cost a dollar to get a souvenir. It was so simply
constructed. It was just a small microcomputer, and lots of relays and
servomotors, and a 190,000 lb. press. The gift shop was nice. It had
some nice trinkets. Doug got a sculpture of Maiasaura. A dinosaur
sculpture garden was outside. We enjoyed our visit, and left to go to
the Vernal Visitor Center. I picked up several pamphlets on Dinosaur
National Monument and returned to the van. We made one last stop in
Vernal, to have the Oil changed. It took 15 minutes for an oil change
and lube job. The proprietors were very folksy people. We reached
Dinosaur National Monument at 11:00, and got a fee waiver. Then we
traveled to the petroglyphs. The drawings on the rock are very detailed
and stylistic. We took several pictures, including a group picture. We
ate sandwiches for lunch a campground, and then traveled back to the
Visitor Center. We had a fifteen-minute wait for the tram, so I called
home. The Quarry, is located on the top f a ridge, and is tilted almost
75 degrees toward vertical. The bone bed is about forty-five million
years old. Some of the fossils that appeared on the rock face are an
Apatosaurus, a Saurapod, a Stegasaurus, and a Camarasaurus. Also a
fossilized tree-trunk appears. This area was once a sandbar on a stream,
and the bones would get trapped and be buried by the river. One
reconstruction that stood out as a Camarasaurus Lentus, that was found
in 1925 by Charles Gilmore of the Smithsonian Institution. It was
articulated and 90% complete. The original is at the Carnegie Museum in
Pennsylvania. The museum had a good gift shop and had glow-in-the-dark
dinosaur posters. Several people purchased the posters. We returned to
the van, and someone bumped a custom van as they got in. The custom
van's alarm went off and we just laughed and left. Our destination was
Douglass Pass, Colorado. We traveled East for about 50 miles, and
Stopped in Rangeley Colorado for groceries. Douglass Pass is at 8000+
feet elevation and is located on Colorado highway 139. We reached the
pass about five o'clock p.m. and immediately found some fossils at the
edge of the road cut. A highway maintenance shed is where we parked and
prospected. Doug climbed up the cliff and found a fossil layer. Everyone
immediately climbed up and began removing rubble and searching for
fossils. We dug for about an hour, and then headed down the mountain to
find a campsite. We stopped at a hunting cabin that was empty. The cabin
was posted, but the yard was not. We set up camp, while Dr. Yenke
returned to the pass, to pick up Doug and Leigh Anne who had been
splitting rocks. We had Hamburger-helper Lasagna and salad for supper,
as well as beans. We went to sleep about 9:30 and were to be up at 6:00.
The low was about 50 degrees, but the ground was hard. I woke up with a
backache.
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Thursday, August 1, 1991 -- Day 26
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I woke up and had a cup of coffee, then packed up. We decided not
to prospect any more because of the quantity of fossils and last
night’s sporadic showers. We left for Grand Junction and a real
breakfast. I had steak and eggs, with toast. The coffee and food was
delicious. Today we were going to the Florissant Fossil Beds in
Florissant, Colorado. We drove east, and turned south toward Florissant,
but the road had been damaged and construction was occurring, so we
returned to the interstate and headed east towards Denver. We passed all
of the prime ski areas, and through the suburbs of Denver, before
stopping in Limon, Colorado for pizza. We had four pizzas and
breadsticks. The Yenke's left early, to go get groceries. Jany went
shopping, and some calls home were made. I sat and finished eating. The
waitress was very nice and said we could stay at our table, while we
waited. The Yenke's returned and had a story to tell. While Syble was
shopping, Dr. Yenke had asked a gentleman where the nearest state park
was located. The man replied that there was not one anywhere close, and
said," I have a ranch about thirteen miles north of town, you cam
camp there if you like." We left the Pizza Hut following Harry and
Shirley Thompson, north thirteen miles on Highway 71 to their 2000-acre
ranch. We quickly set up camp and then visited with the Thompsons for
twenty minutes. Everyone thanked them for their kindness. We went to
sleep about 9:30, because we were getting up at 6:00. Doug and Leigh
Anne wrestled for a while. I finally went to sleep at 10:30 and slept
good.
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Friday, August 2, 1991 -- Day 27 |
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I woke up at 6:15
and had breakfast. We took some group pictures, and said good-bye to the
Thompsons. We left by 8:30 and headed toward Kansas City, Missouri. We
stopped in Oakley, Kansas for lunch. Then we loaded back up for the long
drive east. We arrived in Kansas City about 6:00 and the temperature was
102 degrees. We went into the edge of town looking for a restaurant, and
a camping store. We stopped at K-Mart and got some Coleman fuel. We did
not find a restaurant, so we headed east. We stopped in Odessa Missouri,
at the Countryside Restaurant. I had a sixteen-ounce Kansas City Strip
for supper, and everyone had a good meal. A campground was only another
1/4 of a mile away. We set up camp. Several people took showers. I
shaved for the first time since Drumheller. I called John Anthony. He
was going back to South Carolina the next day. I wanted to call Howard
Johnson, but could not remember his hometown. It was only thirty miles
away, in Windsor, Missouri. Leigh Anne chased me off the telephone. I
went to sleep at about 11:00 and slept good.
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Saturday, August 3, 1991 -- Day 28 |
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I woke up late. Dr. Yenke had to wake me up. I packed quickly and
ate breakfast. We wanted to get to Nashville, Tennessee by night. We
stopped for lunch at the Gateway rest area and welcome center. We made
it to Cedars of Lebanon State Park and set up camp about 6:00. We washed
the van, inside and out. It took about an hour and a half. Everyone,
except Syble and I, left to go Swimming. Syble took a shower, and then
everyone returned, because the pool was closed. I took a shower and
shaved, and got ready to go to supper. We went into Lebanon, and ate at
Bonanza. I had a small rib eye, and a chocolate mousse. I had a good
supper and enjoyed the evening very much. I did not sleep well. I had
indigestion from eating too much food, and it was a warm evening.
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Sunday, August 4, 1991 -- Day 29 |
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We got up at 6:00 a.m. The Yenke's stormed the tent with flashing
cameras. I had gotten up and was ready. I had on my jungle hat and was
packing. I quickly had pastries and coffee for breakfast. We packed up
and quickly left. We stopped in Nashville at a Shoney's for breakfast.
Everyone ordered the Breakfast Bar and stuffed himself or herself. I
enjoyed several cups of coffee and a glass of orange juice. We made a
short stop in Travelers Rest for gas. We arrived in Due West at 3:15.
Everyone jumped out of the van. Photo opportunities abounded. We had a
bunch of pictures taken. We had a quick exposition of fossils. We
unloaded the van and turned the seat around. Then we said our good-byes.
Finally at 5:30 p.m., I was on my way back home.
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